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Why Damage is Important to Fashion Historians

11/13/2021

13 Comments

 
Antique clothing comes in a wide range of conditions and stability. While it would be fantastic if every garment was in impeccable condition, the truth is that even the best kept items show a little wear and tear.
Taking into consideration the stability of a garment is essential for determining how to both store and display it. It is important to note that we can learn a great deal from a garment that is damaged, sometimes more so than one that is complete. When the inner parts of a garment become visible we can make inferences about construction methods, resource utilization, and past alterations which all help to tell a better story about a particular item. It is also important to note that being able to identify the hidden materials in an item can help us figure out how to preserve it better and potentially even narrow down the time period in which it was made.

In the first two photos below you can see baleen bones emerging from their casings, or boning channels. The first image shows a broken strip of clear amber colored baleen poking through a boning channel which is reinforced with a blue herringbone stitch. The second image shows a baleen strip which has been covered in a metal cap to prevent it from poking through the fabric. It is possible that the metal capped baleen has been saturated in a resin or adhesive to stabilize it, and you can see that it has a drastically different texture than the baleen in the first photo. The adhesive itself may pose a risk to the structure of the surrounding fabric if exposed to moisture and is important to take note of. Both of these garments were constructed within fifteen years of each other, so it is interesting to notice the variance in available baleen in that particular point in time.


The third photo is one of my personal favorites--it shows the neckline of a beige silk dress with clear glass beads. If you pay close attention to the closure system you can see that there is the remnant of an extra button hole at the very top, just barely peeking over the edge of the fabric. This tells us that at one point there was more fabric there, necessitating more button holes. Perhaps this dress originally had a high collar and was altered to have a lower cut. Using other context clues from that garment's construction it became evident that the dress was made some time in the 1870s but had been altered to fit the styles of the 1890s. I wouldn't have noticed that this dress was manufactured twenty years prior to its current style if I hadn't seen the button hole.
The last photo shows the torn lining of a bodice, with the back of the fashion fabric visible through the tear. In this particular instance, being able to see the back of the fashion fabric allows us to determine whether it is a brocade or a damask. In this instance the back of the fabric is a smooth reverse pattern of the outside, so it is a damask. A brocade would have had a multitude of loose threads on the back as a byproduct of the weaving process.
​

All of these details are visible because of the damage to these garments. It is the duty of museum staff to preserve historical objects, but it is also our job to tell their stories. Seeing these minute details allows us to make deeper connections to the history of an item and tell their stories to the public.

Article written by Intern Emily Price

13 Comments
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12/2/2021 03:29:13 am

The fashion industry is not just about clothing. The clothes are often the wrapper that holds the real value - the damage. Damage to a garment can be seen as art because it reveals what has happened to it and how it was worn, which in turn tells us something about its past owner. But if there are deep scratches all over them then you know they trod daily through rough terrain for years!

Reply
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8/17/2024 04:10:02 am

Emily, your blog post on the significance of damage in antique clothing is both insightful and revealing. Your exploration into how visible wear and tear can provide crucial information about garment construction, historical alterations, and material use underscores the depth of analysis that fashion historians undertake. The detailed observations of baleen construction, alterations in the neckline of a silk dress, and the identification of fabric types through damage illustrate how even imperfections can enrich our understanding of historical fashion.

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2/11/2022 02:57:20 am

Fashion historians love to collect damaged, mis-cut, and spliced garments. This is because these garments are not only beautiful, but they also provide a fascinating window into the history of fashion. Mis-cut and spliced clothing can also reveal some important details about the clothing industry, such as what was popular at the time.

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6/25/2022 10:25:20 am

very good

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7/15/2022 11:20:58 pm

Damage is important to fashion historians because it helps us understand how materials were handled and the ways they were used over several different periods of time. The more damage you see, the older the garment is. This chapter provides a brief introduction to the importance of this field, as well as a more in depth look at damage and how it affects the social lives of textiles.

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9/14/2022 10:18:24 pm


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6/18/2023 06:39:06 am

Are those damage easy to repair? But, they are still pretty.

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7/14/2023 02:22:00 am

Damage is of utmost importance to fashion historians as it serves as a crucial check, shedding light on the intricate details of garments and the stories they carry. Through close examination of tears, fraying edges, and faded hues, historians are able to decipher the wear and tear that garments have endured, offering valuable insights into their historical context. Such damage can reveal the lifestyle and social status of the wearer, the working conditions during the era, and even the shifting trends of fashion. By meticulously studying the marks of time, fashion historians are able to check the authenticity of garments, uncover hidden narratives, and piece together a more comprehensive understanding of our sartorial past.

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10/9/2023 10:47:01 pm

Damage may not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about antique clothing, but for fashion historians, it holds a wealth of valuable information. Antique garments come in various conditions, and while pristine pieces are a collector's dream, damaged ones can offer unique insights into the past. Understanding the stability of a garment is crucial for proper storage and display. When damage reveals the inner workings of a piece, historians can glean insights into construction methods, materials used, and even past alterations. This hidden knowledge not only enriches our understanding of the item but also aids in its preservation and dating.

Ultimately, the importance of damage to fashion historians lies in the ability to uncover hidden narratives and provide a deeper connection to history. Museums and preservationists have a dual role – not only preserving historical objects but also sharing their stories with the public. Damage, paradoxically, becomes a gateway to unlocking the rich tapestry of history woven into each piece of antique clothing, making it an indispensable aspect of fashion research and curation.

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12/14/2023 12:44:59 am

I find this perspective on the importance of damage in fashion history truly enlightening. It's easy to be drawn to the flawless, well-preserved garments of the past, but as a fashion historian, I've come to appreciate the value of those with visible wear and tear. These imperfections provide a glimpse into the practicality and durability of fashion from bygone eras.

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4/29/2024 03:22:49 pm

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6/17/2024 04:43:59 am

I think you ve made some truly interesting points. Not too many people would actually think about this the way you just did.

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8/30/2024 01:43:53 am

This blog post offers a fascinating perspective on the importance of damage to fashion historians. The discussion on how wear and tear provide insights into the history, use, and cultural significance of clothing is both enlightening and thought-provoking. It's a reminder that imperfections tell stories and that understanding these can deepen our appreciation of historical garments and the lives of those who wore them. The article does an excellent job of highlighting the value of studying damaged clothing as a means to explore the rich tapestry of human history.

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